ArborBrook Vineyards 2013 Klipsun Vineyard Sydney Sèmillon, Red Mountain, $36

arborbrook-vineyards-klipsun-vineyard-sydney-semillon-label-2013North Willamette Valley growers Dave and Mary Hansen reach over the Oregon/Washington border and into Red Mountain for this delicate and delicious late harvest Sèmillon they’ve named after their daughter. Renowned winemaker Laurent Montalieu, who trained in Bordeaux before landing in Napa, continues his success with this white Bordeaux grape, and his traditional program includes a program of barrel fermentation in French oak, most of it new, and aging for a year. That allows for fascinating aromas of caramel, butter, honeycomb and white orchard fruit. There’s no disappointment in the flavors, which include Fiddle Faddle popcorn and a pleasing texture that nicely balances the residual sugar of 13%. The family suggests pairing this with foie gras, blue cheese, pear or apple tart, rhubarb tart with orange caramel or cheesecake with habañero peach jam. It can also serve as a substitute for simple syrup in tropical-themed cocktails. This grabbed a silver medal in the White Dessert category of wines with more than 3.5% residual sugar at the 2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Rating: Excellent

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