Isenhower Cellars 2014 Wallula Vineyard Mourvèdre, Horse Heaven Hills, $34

One of Washington’s oldest plantings of Mourvèdre, a block dating to 1998, comes to life in the hands of Walla Walla’s Brett Isenhower. His presentation of fruit harvested Oct. 9 leads to enticing aromas of dusty blackberry and Jolly Rancher grape candy with pinches of black pepper, anise and oregano. The free-run juice from used French oak barrels brings flavors of elderberry and deep blueberry supported within a pleasing tannin structure that’s capped by white pepper.

Rating: Outstanding!

Production: 173 cases

Alcohol: 15%

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